If you’re dealing with dry, frizzy, or fragile hair, you’re not alone. This condition is more common than many people realize, and it can cause a host of problems. Dry hair is more prone to breakage, making it harder to grow out if that’s your goal. It’s also often accompanied by a dry, flaky scalp, which can be irritated, red, and itchy. For many, this is a persistent issue that seems to only worsen over time.
Modern skincare culture often makes things worse for our hair and scalp. Many common hair care practices and products are actually highly damaging. In this article, we’ll discuss the key things you should neverdo if you have dry, frizzy, or sensitive hair. These tips apply not only to those with dry hair but to anyone who’s looking to protect their scalp and hair from further damage.
1. Avoid Hot Water
Hot water is a staple in many people’s showers and baths, but it can be a major culprit when it comes to damaging dry hair and scalp. Water above 104°F (40°C) can scald and irritate the skin, making it even more sensitive if you're already prone to dryness. This is especially problematic for those with dry or flaky scalps, as hot water can worsen irritation and strip away natural oils, leaving the scalp and hair even more vulnerable.
Instead, wash your hair with lukewarm or cool water. This will be gentler on both your scalp and hair, helping to retain moisture without causing additional dryness or irritation.
2. Shampooing Too Frequently
Shampooing is another practice that’s often overdone. Shampoos are detergent-based and strip away natural oils that your hair and scalp need to stay healthy. Categorically, shampoos have no clear benefit and as such should be considered purely cosmetic and potentially harmful products.
Shampooing too often can leave your scalp vulnerable to irritation. If you have dry hair, you may want to cut back on shampooing. This will help preserve the oils that naturally protect and moisturize your hair, preventing further dryness and breakage. While I don’t make specific recommendations in this article, many patients who took my suggestion to decrease or completely stop shampooing (washing with lukewarm water only or a conditioner) reported significant improvement in the quality of their hair as well as a decrease in dryness and breakage.
3. Using Harsh Soaps or Cleansers
Some people opt for soaps or other cleansers instead of traditional shampoos, thinking they're gentler on the hair and scalp. While this may seem like a good idea, most soaps are also detergents that can strip essential oils from the scalp. This is especially problematic for those with dry hair, as it can make the condition worse.
Soaps, like shampoos, may leave your scalp dry and sensitive, which can lead to inflammation and more irritation over time.
4. Excessive Heat Styling
Heat styling tools like flat irons, curling irons, and hot rollers are commonly used to style hair, but they can be damaging—especially if your hair is already dry or fragile. These devices can further dehydrate the hair, weaken its structure, and even lead to scalp irritation.
Consider air-drying your hair or using a blow dryer with a lower heat setting to minimize damage.
5. Blow Drying with High Heat
Blow drying, especially with high heat, is another practice that can dry out your hair and scalp. It can disrupt the natural oily layer surrounding the hair shaft and cause heat-induced damage to the hair cuticle. Blow-drying can also lead to scalp irritation if the heat is directed too close to the skin, further drying out the scalp and worsening any pre-existing sensitivity.
To protect your hair and scalp, use a blow dryer with a cool or low heat setting, and keep the dryer moving to prevent overheating any one spot on your scalp.
6. Chemical Treatments (Perming, Relaxing, etc.)
Chemical treatments like perms, relaxers, or coloring can dramatically change the texture of your hair. While these treatments are designed to alter the hair’s structure, they often make hair more fragile, increasing the risk of breakage. For those with dry hair or sensitive scalps, these chemicals can lead to severe irritation, itching, and even inflammation.
If you have dry or sensitive hair, it’s best to avoid harsh chemical treatments. If you do color or chemically treat your hair, be sure to follow up with intensive conditioning treatments to restore moisture and strengthen your strands.
7. Over-Styling
Hair styling can be fun and creative, but over-styling—especially with products or techniques that irritate the scalp—can damage the hair’s natural texture. Applying excessive heat or using harsh, chemically abrasive products can strip the hair of essential oils and make it more prone to dryness and breakage.
Try to keep hair styling to a minimum, and avoid using styling tools that rely on excessive heat. When you do style, choose products that are gentle and moisturizing, and aim for natural, healthy looks that won’t stress your hair and scalp.
What You Should Do Instead
Now that we’ve covered what you should avoid, let’s talk about what you can do to help your dry, frizzy hair recover and stay healthy:
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Use Lukewarm or Cool Water – Avoid hot water, which can dry out and irritate both your hair and scalp. Stick to cooler temperatures to preserve moisture.
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Wash Less Frequently – Shampooing too often can strip essential oils from your hair. Shampooing less often with the frequency to be determined individually as tolerated or forgoing shampooing altogether for washing purely with water is an effective solution.
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Condition – Conditioning is essential for dry hair. Whether you use a rinse-out or leave-in conditioner, look for formulas that are hydrating and nourishing to help restore the moisture lost during washing.
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Use Oils – For very dry hair, adding oils like argan oil, coconut oil, or shea butter can help to lock in moisture and provide nourishment. These oils can soften hair and make it more manageable.
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Be Gentle with Styling – be mindful of your styling ingredients using the gentlest ones, lower traction when styling and use moderately warm to room temperature blow drying.
By taking these steps and avoiding common pitfalls, you can help your dry, frizzy hair become healthier, more manageable, and less prone to breakage. Remember, your scalp and hair are delicate, so treat them with care, and don’t be afraid to let your natural hair shine through!
If you found this helpful, subscribe to Dr. Bibi's Newsletter for cutting edge skincare and share this article. For further insights into skincare simplification, check out my book "Sick Skin - Skin Care Made Simple" on Amazon, now available in audio.
Thanks for reading and God bless.
Yuval Bibi, MD/PhD - Board Certified Dermatologist
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