If you’ve been paying attention to skincare trends over the past few decades, you’re likely aware of the fad surrounding oil-free moisturizers and skincare products. These are typically marketed as water-based and, as a result, supposed to be "non-comedogenic," or less likely to cause acne, compared to their oil-based counterparts. But how true is this claim? Are oil-based moisturizers really the "bad guys" they’re made out to be?
In this post, we’ll take a closer look at oil-based moisturizers and address the big question: Are they truly comedogenic?
What Does "Comedogenic" Really Mean?
To start, let’s define the term "comedogenic." A comedogenic product is one that is known to cause acne by either clogging the pores or causing inflammation at the follicular level (which can lead to conditions like folliculitis or acne-like bumps). According to some skincare manufacturers, oil-based products are often labeled as comedogenic, while oil-free products are marketed as safer, particularly for those with acne-prone skin. But is this always true?
Examining Common Oils in Skincare Products
Let’s take a look at some of the most commonly used oils in skincare products and see if they actually deserve their reputation for causing acne.
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Coconut Oil: Coconut oil is a popular ingredient in many skincare products. It’s an excellent moisturizer with occlusive and emollient properties, meaning it helps to lock moisture in the skin. While coconut oil doesn’t typically cause acne, it can cause irritation in some cases, especially for individuals with very sensitive skin. I’ve had a handful of people (out of thousands) report mild irritation when using extra virgin, organic coconut oil as a facial moisturizer or hair conditioner. But this is pretty rare, and generally, coconut oil is safe for most people.
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Sunflower Oil: Sunflower oil is another common oil found in skincare products. There are zero reports of sunflower oil being comedogenic. In fact, it is generally considered safe for all skin types and doesn’t clog pores.
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Argan Oil: Known for its use in both skincare and hair care, argan oil doesn’t have any significant comedogenic reports associated with it. It’s widely regarded as a non-comedogenic oil and is safe for most people to use.
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Shea Butter: Shea butter is a go-to ingredient in many body and facial moisturizers. Despite its rich, thick texture, reports of shea butter being comedogenic are practically nonexistent. I’ve never seen anyone experience worsening acne or clogged pores from raw or purified shea butter.
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Olive Oil: Olive oil is frequently used in moisturizing balms, creams, and hair care products. Some sources have claimed olive oil to be mildly to moderately comedogenic, but there are no solid scientific studies to back this up. In my experience, olive oil is safe and non-comedogenic for most people. However, there are occasional reports of allergic contact dermatitis (a type of skin irritation) and irritant contact dermatitis, but these are relatively rare.
The Big Bad Wolf: Petroleum Jelly
Now, let’s talk about the one oil that gets a lot of mixed opinions: petroleum jelly. It’s often seen as the thick, greasy product that could clog pores and cause acne. However, despite its high viscosity and greasy consistency, petroleum jelly is known to be non-comedogenic. In fact, it’s considered one of the best occlusive moisturizers in the skincare world. Petroleum jelly forms a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture without clogging pores.
The key to using petroleum jelly correctly is moderation. You don’t need a heavy layer to reap its benefits. Just a tiny amount, applied sparingly, is enough to restore the skin’s natural moisture barrier.
The Bottom Line: Are Oil-Based Moisturizers Really Comedogenic?
So, the takeaway is this: Oil-based moisturizers are not inherently comedogenic. In fact, the vast majority of them are not comedogenic at all. The idea that oil-based products will always clog pores is simply a misconception.
Comedogenicity is not about the consistency of a product (whether it’s oily or water-based). It’s about the biochemical makeup of the product and how it interacts with your unique skin. Some products may cause acne for one person but be perfectly safe for someone else. The key is understanding how different oils work on your skin. Every oil needs to be judged on its own merits, and some oils may be more suitable for your skin type than others.
When it comes to choosing skincare products, it’s important to focus on the ingredients and your skin’s response to them, not just whether the product is oil-based or not. If an oil works well for you without causing breakouts, it’s likely safe to continue using.
At the end of the day, the consistency of a product doesn’t make it comedogenic—the ingredients and their individual effects on your skin do. So don’t be afraid of oil-based moisturizers if they work for you!
If you found this helpful, subscribe to Dr. Bibi's Newsletter for cutting edge skincare and share this article. For further insights into skincare simplification, check out my book "Sick Skin - Skin Care Made Simple" on Amazon, now available in audio.
Thanks for reading and God bless.
Yuval Bibi, MD/PhD - Board Certified Dermatologist
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